This document illustrates the steps and materials required to replace the table top rubber on any Park Industries Pro Edge II, III, or IV edge polishing machine

SKILL LEVEL 1

ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE: 4 hours

Important!
∗ The shop must be at 65 degrees F or warmer in order for the glue to set up and cure in a timely manner.
∗ No dry grinding can take place in the area during the gluing process as dust will hamper the adhesion.

Materials listed are tested and approved by Park. Do not substitute.

Required Materials from Park Industries
• 1 sheet of 18’ x 48” x 1/8” neoprene rubber – Park #8255012
• 1 box of 1” black vinyl trim – Park #8200038

• Item’s below need to be purchased locally
• 1 tube of DAP black 50 year silicone caulking.
• 1 tube of DAP clear 50 year silicone caulking.
• 1 gallon of DAP Weldwood contact cement (The polychloroprene based type)
• 1 Short nap paint roller cover.
• 2 two inch paint brushes
• 1 pair of solvent resistant gloves
• 2 rolls of paper towels
• 1 syringe
• 3 needles( 18g x 1”)
• 1 snap blade hobby knife
• 1 paint tray liner
• 1 paint roller frame
• 1 paint roller tray

• Customer must supply
• 1 gallon of low odor mineral spirits (paint thinner)
• 1 gallon of acetone
• 1 person to assist in the application of the neoprene rubber table top.
• If the optional kit #60420 is not purchased from park, the customer must supply all of the materials outlined in the kit. Specified brand names must be followed, as these are the only park approved brands that tested to our standards.

Installation Procedure

1.Disconnect the air supply from the machine, and remove all of the hold down cylinders from the bridge. Single out the end cylinder with the elbow fittings, and re-install it to the bridge. Hook up the air lines, and reconnect the air supply.

2. Remove the old edge trim and old rubber top from the machine. The edge trim tape can be removed with a putty knife. The old contact cement is best removed by soaking it in a generous amount of mineral spirits for around 10– 15 min. Then wipe it off with a mineral spirits soaked rag. The glue will rubberize and ball up for easier removal. The glue will rubberize and ball up for easier removal.

3. After all of the glue and edge trim tape is removed, the table top needs to prepped further by wiping it down with acetone. This will remove any further traces of glue or mineral spirits residue.

4. If the table top has heavy spots of rust, it is recommended to grind the rust down and topcoat the spots with a rust primer. Krylon makes a heavy rust primer that works very well for this application. It can be found at most home improvement stores.

5. Next, scrape off as much of the old silicone off of the end plates, front edge, and center plate. ( If present ).

6. Blow off the table, and run the cross travel to the farthest away end.

7. Place the new roll of rubber on the table and unroll it. Center it on the table top, a . couple inches of overhang on both the front and back edges, which will be trimmed later.

8. Fold the toward end of the rubber over to the away end, keeping the front and back edges flush with the other half. Apply the contact cement to the first half of the rubber, and then to the first half of the table top. Leave around 15 inches unglued on the end of the rubber. When the glue is tacky on the rubber, apply a second coat. Again, wait until the glue is tacky before starting lay the rubber down. This usually takes 10–15 min., depending on the temperature and humidity.

9. With a helper on the opposite end of the table, carefully pull a section over around. 6-8 inches at a time. Make sure to keep the front and back edges even when doing this! As you unroll the rubber also rub it down on the table in a way not to trap any air bubbles. When you get to the end of the glue on the rubber, dry fit the end and apply 2 coats of glue to the rubber. Let it get tacky, and lay it down.

10. Bring the crosstravel to the toward end, and repeat the above steps for the away end.

11. Using the 4” roller, roll down the glued sections by working from the center to the outside. If any air bubbles are present, work them out as well as possible with the roller, and suck the air out with the syringe.

12. Trim the excess rubber from the front and back edges. Also cut out the holes or the pop up rollers. If the customer does not have the round table option, the rubber can be left covering the center plate, and trim the center cut out. A narrow blade hobby knife works best for cutting the rubber.

13. Next, apply the front and back edge trim. Leave around 1/32” of the painted edge exposed between the table top and edge trim. This will give the black silicone a good edge to adhere to.

14. Run a narrow bead of black silicone across the front and back edges. The clear silicone is used around the end plates and bridge uprights. If the center plate is trimmed around, (round table option), run a bead along the center piece of rubber.

Important!
∗ Allow the caulking to dry and the glue to cure overnight, if possible, 4 hours minimum before moving any stone onto the table surface.
∗ Repair any future cuts or tears immediately by gluing down any loose pieces and filling the cuts with silicone.